Hybrid Racing Clutch Cylinder for Acura Integra K Swap (1994-2001) Upgrade Kit with Optional Slave

Fitment Information

• Acura Integra K Swap (1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001)
  

  • Does Not Fit RHD Cars

Note

• Master & Slave: Some modification may be necessary depending on your application. Not for factory K-series chassis, see our separate kit for those applications.

Specs & Features

• Helps to eliminate grinds during hard shifts
• OEM Honda master cylinder
• Stainless steel braided clutch line
• Improves the feel of gear changes

Product Description

Factory clutch master cylinders in the Civics are known to be rather unreliable and because of their poor design and quality, it can lead to premature failures of critical parts throughout the drivetrain.

High RPM grinds are mostly attributed to the OE master cylinders' inability to transfer fluid effectively to the slave cylinder, thus causing grinding and rasping of the gears and synchros since the clutch disk hasn’t fully disengaged.

Upgrading the clutch master cylinder and clutch line to Hybrid Racing EM1 kit changes the system to an older, more direct and efficient system. This improvement allows the driver to feel a more consistent and direct clutch pedal which also improves shifting at high RPMs.

Read through Hybrid Racing instructions to get an idea of what it takes to get your gear change issues fixed once and for all. Also, consider upgrading your shifter cables or cable bushings for an even more direct and crisp gear change.

If your K-swapped EG, EK, or DC grinds going into gear at high rpm, this is almost always why. The factory clutch master cylinders in the newer cars aren't very good, and when you put one in front of a K-series transmission and start shifting hard, it can't move fluid to the slave fast enough. The clutch disc never fully disengages, so you're shifting into a spinning input shaft and chewing up your synchros doing it. This kit replaces every part of your clutch release system, master cylinder, slave cylinder, and line, with hardware that actually keeps up with how you drive.

Why Your K-Swap Grinds At High RPM
Worth understanding, because most people blame the transmission and start pricing out gear sets. The master cylinder's job is to push fluid to the slave fast enough to fully release the clutch every time you hit the pedal. Shifting at 4,000 rpm, that has to happen in a fraction of a second. A weak master cylinder can't move fluid quickly enough, so the disc is still partially engaged when you go for the next gear. That's the grind and the rasp you're hearing, and your synchros are paying for it. It's not a broken transmission yet, but keep doing it and it will be. This kit swaps you to an older, simpler, more direct system that moves fluid properly, and the grinding stops.

Built Specifically For K-Swapped EG, EK
This kit is purpose-built for K-swapped golden era chassis, which is what makes it different from a clutch cylinder for a factory K-series car. When you drop a K-series into an EG, EK the clutch release side is one of those things that doesn't just carry over cleanly, and half-solving it with mismatched parts is how you end up with a vague pedal and shifts you can't trust. This is the complete answer for that specific job.

All three, because replacing just the master cylinder and leaving a tired slave or a soft factory line only fixes part of the problem. Together they give you a pedal that feels consistent and direct instead of vague, and shifts that land cleanly when you're actually driving.

The Slave Cylinder Has No Clutch Delay Valve
This matters more than it sounds. We only use OE-quality parts, and this OE JDM slave works with all 01-15 Honda K-series transmissions, with no clutch delay valve and no dampener. Honda puts delay valves in to soften driveline shock during fast gear changes, which is fine for a commuter, but that slow response is exactly what causes missed or locked shifts when you're driving hard. Those missed shifts are what damage gears and synchros. Without the delay valve, you feel precisely when the clutch releases and engages, so you can shift fast and clean instead of guessing.

This kit is for K-swapped cars specifically. If you're running a factory K-series chassis, we make a different kit for that application, so grab the right one for your car.

One honest note: depending on your specific setup, some modification may be necessary to install. K-swaps vary, so read through our instructions before you start and you'll know exactly what you're getting into.

Use The Right Fluid, And Change It
Two things we'd tell anyone installing this. Run OEM Honda MTF in your transmission, it's what these gearboxes want and it isn't worth experimenting with. And use DOT4 or a high-temp brake fluid in the clutch hydraulic system, not whatever's left in the bottle on the shelf. Then actually change it, every time you service your brake fluid or any time the clutch fluid looks cloudy. Clutch fluid absorbs moisture and gets tired just like brake fluid does, and a system this responsive deserves clean fluid in it. Ten minutes of maintenance keeps the pedal feeling like it did on day one.

Finish The Job With Your Shifter Cables
If you're fixing your gear changes, look at the other half of the equation while you're at it. This kit sorts out the clutch side, but worn shifter cables or tired cable bushings put slop right back into the shift. Pairing this with fresh shifter cables or cable bushings gets you a shift that's crisp from your hand all the way to the transmission. Doing both at once actually fixes the problem instead of chasing half of it.

Who Should Run This Kit
This is for anyone with a K-swapped EG, EK, or DC who's tired of grinding into gear when they get on it. Maybe you've been babying your shifts to avoid it, maybe you've already replaced a synchro over it, maybe your pedal has just always felt vague and you figured that was part of the deal with a swap. It isn't. Fix the release system and the car shifts the way a K-series should. And to be clear, this won't repair a transmission that's already damaged. We're not magicians.

In the box

• (1) OE Genuine JDM Clutch Master Cylinder
• (1) Stainless Steel Braided Clutch Line
• Banjo Fitting with Washers:
  • Master Only: (1) 
  • Master & Slave: (2)
• (1) Master Only: Adapter Fitting for the Slave Cylinder
• (1) Master & Slave: OE Genuine JDM Slave Cylinder