DC Sports Headers for Honda Accord EX / LX K24 (2003-2007) Polished Stainless Steel or Ceramic Coated

Your 2003-2007 Accord 2.4L feels sluggish and the throttle response isn't there? The stock cast iron exhaust manifold is restrictive. DC Sports makes a stainless steel 4-1 header for the K24 that flows way better than the factory manifold. The header's available in polished stainless steel or ceramic coated. The ceramic coating helps keep underhood temperatures down by reflecting heat instead of radiating it into the engine bay. The header uses larger diameter mandrel-bent runners so exhaust gases get out of the head without fighting tight bends and thick cast iron walls. You're getting quicker throttle response, stronger midrange pull, and the engine breathes better at high RPM. On a healthy K24, this header's one of the bolt-ons you actually feel, not just hear.

Here's Why the Stock Manifold Chokes the Engine

The factory exhaust manifold on the K24 Accord is cast iron with tight bends and thick walls. Cast iron is heavy and it doesn't flow well. The runners are smaller diameter and the bends are sharp. Exhaust gases have to fight their way through all those restrictions. When the engine's making power, it's pumping a lot of exhaust. If the exhaust can't get out fast enough, it creates backpressure. Backpressure kills power and throttle response. The DC Sports header uses mandrel-bent tubing with smooth, gradual bends. The inside diameter stays constant through the bends instead of crimping down. Gases flow easier and the engine makes more power.

Equal Length 4-1 Design Helps Scavenging

This header's a 4-1 equal length design. All four primary tubes are the same length and they merge into one collector. Equal length primaries help with exhaust scavenging. When one cylinder fires and sends exhaust down its tube, it creates a pressure wave. That wave helps pull exhaust out of the next cylinder when its exhaust valve opens. Equal length tubes mean the scavenging effect happens evenly across all four cylinders. You're getting smoother power delivery and the engine pulls stronger at higher RPM. The 4-1 collector merges all four tubes into one outlet. That design works well for street driving and keeps the power broad instead of peaky.

Polished or Ceramic Coated Finish

The header comes in two finishes. Polished stainless steel looks clean in the engine bay and shows off the quality of the welds. It doesn't do anything for heat, but it looks way better than rusty cast iron. Ceramic coating adds a heat barrier. The coating reflects exhaust heat instead of letting it radiate into the engine bay. That keeps underhood temperatures lower, which helps your intake temps stay down and keeps other components from heat soaking. If you're running a tight engine bay or you're worried about heat, the ceramic coated version's worth it. The coating also helps prevent corrosion and discoloration from heat cycles.

T304 Stainless Steel Construction

The header's made from T304 stainless steel. That's corrosion-resistant stainless that handles heat cycling without rusting or cracking. Every joint's TIG welded inside and out. Welding the inside of the joint keeps the weld bead smooth so there's no turbulence disrupting flow. Welding both sides also makes the joints stronger and less likely to crack from heat cycles and vibration. The flanges are CNC machined so they're flat and seal properly against the head and the rest of the exhaust. A warped flange means you're chasing exhaust leaks. These flanges bolt up tight and seal right.

50 State Legal With CARB Approval

This header's CARB compliant with EO number D-370-14. That means it's legal in all 50 states including California. You're not failing emissions or getting ref'd for running an aftermarket header. If you're in a state with strict emissions testing, this header passes. You don't have to swap back to the stock manifold for inspection or worry about getting hassled.

Bolt-On Installation With Factory Hardware

The header bolts to the factory locations. You're using the stock mounting hardware. No cutting, no welding, no custom work. Unbolt the old manifold, bolt the new header on, connect it to the rest of your exhaust, done.

Note: When you're installing this header, replace the exhaust manifold gasket. Don't reuse the old one or you're leaking. Use new manifold studs or bolts if the old ones are rusty or damaged. Torque the header bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern to the factory spec. If you over-torque them, you can warp the flange. If you under-torque them, you're getting exhaust leaks. After the first few heat cycles, check the bolts and retorque if needed. Headers can settle slightly as they heat and cool. If you're keeping the rest of your exhaust stock, the header connects to the factory catalytic converter. Make sure that connection seals properly or you're getting exhaust leaks and potential CEL codes from the O2 sensors seeing unmetered air.